How to Grow Your Own Onions
- February 21st, 2012
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As main-crop bulbing onions will not survive mid-summer drought, supply artificial rain for about an hour every ten days if necessary. Do not give water when the bulbs start ripening in the late summer or early autumn.
Hoe the soil between the rows regularly and weed by hand in the rows. If the seed was sown very thinly and large bulbs are not required, there is no need for thinning, and therefore less likelihood of attack from onion fly. Where thinning is necessary, it should be done to within 4 inches apart.
The best treatment is to dust the roots at thinning time (when the seedlings are in the loop or crook stage) with aldrin, a 4 per cent calomel powder or one of the up-to-date gamma B.H.C. dusts sold for the purpose. Follow this by a second application a fortnight later.
Bulbing onions are ready for use in late August and September or early October. The autumn-sown kinds are harvested first. Bend over the necks of the plants by hand or with the back of the rake when the tops are starting to turn yellow. After this the leaves will gradually dry off; when the skin of the bulbs turns yellow, plunge in a fork on either side of the row to loosen the soil. Carefully pull up the onions and lay them out in the sun so that they can dry off. Turn them over 14 days later so that they will ripen evenly; two weeks later they should be ready to put into store.
If the weather is bad, complete the ripening-off on shelves in the greenhouse or potting shed. Onions may be stored in boxes. So that the air will circulate round them, rest them on wire netting put into the bottom of the boxes. These boxes may be piled one on another in an airy, dry shed.
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